Mustang installation Competition Engineering kit Kirkey seats and RCI safety thru floor sub frame

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Have you been searching all over the internet for good, useful information on car audio and car security systems, only to not find what you’re looking for? That’s because a lot of the ‘helpful’ car audio sites are not written by professional installers… but you’ve come to the right place. My name is Dave, and I have over 12 years experience in the car audio industry -selling, installing, managing, you name it. I have been certified by the MECP (Mobile Electronics Certification Program) as both a “Product Specialist” and “Installer First Class”. My years of experience can help you save money by doing your own installs and by being a smarter shopper. By doing your own installs, you could save , , even dollars an hour on labor charges! And save more on purchases!
Even after all of my years in the car audio industry, it still amazes me to see so many people being given bad information or doing their own installs wrong. I talk to people everyday that have gotten their information from (obviously) the wrong sources; people who don’t fuse their power wires, build leaky boxes, and have a mess of wires running through their trunk. Not only do these installs sound bad and look bad, but they can be dangerous and will often damage your equipment. If you want to learn to install like a professional, you’ve got to learn from one!
Just click Here!

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This vid shows how to connect up Deck, Speakers, Amplifiers, Subs & Capacitors got any questions about any of this then just comment/message me and ask or add me on myspace: http://www.myspace.com/ace_cream i will gladly answer any questions that you ask (as you can see i got a new zealand accent allthough i live in australia lol, mainly because family and most of my friends are maori’s)

Pioneer DXT-2369UB Complete Car Audio System NIB HU + 4 Speakers W Built In Amp

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Pioneer DXT-2369UB Complete Car Audio System NIB HU + 4 Speakers W Built In Amp

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2011 Jensen VM9214 Touchscreen Car Audio System**ONLY USED 3 MONTHS**

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Monster iCable 800 1/8" Mini Car Audio System 3 Foot

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SPL 4 FARAD CAR AUDIO SYSTEM DIGITAL POWER CAPACITOR DIGITAL BLUE VOLTAGE METER

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Pioneer High Performance Four Speaker Compact Disc Car Audio System

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How to install your car speakers. Car: 2000 Ford Mustang V6 Stereo: Alpine CDA-9887 Alpine Type-R 5×7 (x4) Alpine Type-R Subwoofers (x2) Alpine PDX1.1000

Sony Xplod 2 Way Car Speakers xs-w5721 (Ford/Mazda/Chrysler)

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2) New Quantum 200W 6x9 5-Way Car Speakers

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Dynex DX-S1000 Car Speakers

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CADENCE CS2.46 4x6 CAR SPEAKERS 240 WATT 2-WAY PAIR NEW

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2 Sets of Clarion CMG1720R 7" 2-Way Water Resistant Coaxial Car Speakers

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2 Sets of Hifonics Zeus ZXi 63 (ZXi63) 6-1/2" 3-way Coaxial 6.5"Car Speakers

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LIGHT EMITTING DIODE(LED) SCANNER
IT IS COMPATIBE WITH EVERY TYPE OF ALARM SYSTEM
THIS SCANNER CAN BE USED EVEN IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN ALARM SYSTEM IN YOUR CAR
WHEN ACTIVATED, THE Red LIGHT MOVES BACK AND FORTH LIKE A MOVING EYE.
12 VOLTS DC
3 WIRE HOOK-UP
EXTREMELY EASY TO INSTALL
For more information please contact us at 1-800-282-1351 or at www.wolfcominnovations.com

Hey how’s everyone doing? This here is an amp install into a 2007 Chrysler 300 with Premium sound. I’m keeping the factory radio though. Tools you’ll need are:

- Philips Screwdriver
- Plastic and metal panel poppers
- Electrical tape
- Crimpers
- Amp kit
- 18 mm socket
- 13 mm socket
- 10 mm socket
- LOC
- 3 mm Allen Key

The colour codes are:

- Ignition : Pink/white
- Left rear +ve : Dark Green/Tan
- Left rear -ve : Dark Green/Gray
- Right rear +ve : Dark Green/Brown
- Right rear -ve : Yellow/Green

RudeCar is a family run business. Their aim is your recommendation and to say the least their work is off the highest quality. Where can we start to explain everything done on this BMW X5. The video/photos will obviously show a lot. All this took 9 weeks with 2 sometimes 3 of the staff working everyday, 7 days a week and over 10 hours a day. They managed to achieve a spectacular ICE install thats for sure! The BMW X5 was a Show Winner at the HIN at Alexandra Palace in 2005 and no doubt would win shows anywhere. The rear screens are unique as they can choose any one of different components for viewing. Whether it’s Sat Nav, DVD from the DVD Multi-Changer, Radio, TV Tuner or even a CD from the Multi-Changer each screen can see whatever they want. Some near 6000 watts of pure power is run through this system and the clarity is second to none! As you can see this car illustrates the superb skill of the RudeCar staff and also illustrates the high quality that RudeCar can achieve. For sure there is a WOW factor here! If you want something special not normally seen this side of the water, then get in touch with RudeCar. www.rudecar.co.uk

Mustang installation Competition Engineering kit Kirkey seats and RCI safety thru floor sub frame

This is Asianwolf’s new smart digital combination keypad starter kill, the smart kpl. This keypad works with or without a car alarm. This unit is easy to install on any car or motorcycle. With this keypad you will now be able to program your own secret and personal code in to the keypad without anyone’s knowledge. This security system fits all 12V vehicles and is can be installed with a car alarm and other extra security systems for maximum vehicle protection. No one can start your car without entering the four to six digit code even if they have the key.

The smart KPL is installed on the front panel of the vehicle where it can be easily approached. The engine of your car will not be able to start without someone entering the code in to the keypad. This prevents thieves from taking off with your car, even if they successfully break in. If you are carjacked outside your vehicle, hand them the keys and run. They won’t be able to start your car. If they take your car while the engine is running, they won’t be able to start it again once they turn the ignition off. Comes complete with relay and all wiring harnesses and diagrams.

As the owner of this keypad, you will receive a master code as well as the ability to choose a code for yourself. This master code is always kept in the system in case you ever forget your actual code. When you receive your product the master code will be located inside of a sealed black plastic bag. The master code is 6 digits long.

The L.E.D. lights of the keypads keyboard will flash slowly in red light to indicate that it is on and activated. Before entering any code you will need to press in the star key. If you do not remember your code you will only have 4 chances to get it right. After the 3rd incorrect entry a long beep will sound as a warning that you only have one more chance. If you still get the code typed in incorrectly then the system will lock itself for the next five minutes. During this time there will be no way for you to start your engine. Once the five minutes are up the system will return to normal.

The Smart KPL also has valet mode for those times when you will not want your keypad to be activated. Avoid giving away the secret code at all costs. To activate valet mode you will need to press the star key and enter your code. Turn on the ignition and make sure the L.E.D. turns off. Press button ’1′ for 7 seconds. Doing this will activate the valet mode. There will be a confirmation beep and the L.E.D. light will show two short blinks every 2 seconds so that you will know it has been activated. You can now turn on the engine without entering the code.

The Smart KPL keypad is perfect for any person who is looking to add a little extra security to their vehicle. It stops thieves from hot wiring and taking off with your car, and with the new feature that allows you to enter your own code, you will never have to wonder what those random numbers the manufacturer setup for you are again, with the exception of when you first setup your new code.

For more information please contact us at 1-800-282-1351.

Alrightee! So, you’re off to installing all of the big-time components to your stereo system. I know you really really really want to skip the boring parts (like running wires), and go straight to installing the components, and turning on your system. Nnnnnno!

Like I have said countless times before, we’re here to do a QUALITY stereo install. Not some janky, lame-o quickie job. We’re installing a stereo for the life of your vehicle, and as such, we spend a little extra time to do things properly. Sooooo, when it comes to wiring, we need to think about how we want to do things first.

To re-cap. Do you know what components you’ll be installing? Even if you don’t have all of the components now, hopefully you know what your plans are. This allows you to run all of the wires, so when you finally get your components, you can just mount them, and hook up the wires, and you’re ready to rock.

Don’t be stupid like most people, and think of components first, THEN think about how to install them. Think of how to install components, get the install parts, THEN install the components. DUH!!! By the way, you’ll save time and money with this approach.

Was that a long enough introduction? OK, let’s get into what you should know about wiring!

First, buy all of the wiring that you think you’ll need, and some extra just for safety. Don’t worry, your money won’t be wasted!

Next, disassemble your vehicle in the places where the wiring will be run. When I say disassemble, I mean it! Pull out seats, carpet, panels, everything! Trust me, this will make running wires easier and safer.

If you plan to use any sort of sound insulation or damping material, now is the time to lay it. If you don’t plan on using it, why not? This will make your system sound better by lowering noise, and by eliminating vibrations. Just do it!

Now, you get to run wires. Run them everywhere they’ll be needed. Run power wires, RCA wires, speaker wires, interface wires, remote turn on wires. EVERYTHING.

Now that they’re laid out how you want and need them, it’s time to secure them. Vehicle manufacturers use ties everywhere to keep wires organized and out of the way. Now it’s your turn! Many many many people skip this step, and I don’t think it’s too smart.

Why?

Because when wires are subjected to vibrations, stress, weather, and other things that are constantly present in vehicles, they tend to wear away. When wires wear away, you get…

Short circuits! Vehicle fires! Ruined components!

Don’t risk it, just secure your wires!

If you have amp racks or other items that your wiring will go through, it’s time to mount those items, and secure the wiring to them.

OK, OK. Those are the basic steps you’ll go through to run wires. But, how do you actually do it? Let’s break it down:

1.) Measure distances between where components will be mounted, and what they connect to. For example, measure from the battery to where you’ll mount your amp. Also, don’t be stupid. Buy a few extra feet at each end, so you’ll have room for error. Also, you’ll want to make sure none of the wires are stretched. You want to have some slack at each end. This will make your life much easier.

Other distances to measure:

Head unit to amp

Amp to speakers

Head unit to cd/dvd changer, mp3 player, navigation system, etc.

Also, before you buy your wires, be sure you know what will work best with your planned components. If you’re planning to install a 500 watt amp, and you know that amp will be 17′ from the battery, use a chart to figure out what wire gauge to use. People like to get all loco in the cabeza with power wire, and spend $5 a foot on 0 gauge wire. WHY??? If you don’t need it, don’t buy it!

2.) OK, so you have all of your wiring in hand, and ready to go. Now is the time to take apart parts of your vehicle. First, figure out where your wires will be run. I usually run my power wire on the same side of the vehicle as the battery. I also usually run my RCA cables down the centre of the vehicle. Knowing this information will tell you where you need to remove parts from your vehicle. If you’re not going to be running wires in a certain part of your vehicle, then it won’t be necessary to take anything apart. UNLESS!! UNLESS!!! UNLESS!!!! You plan to put some sound damping material down. I always recommend this!

So, here we go. Time for the fun part. First things first. Disconnect the ground (aka negative) wire from the battery.

Pull up panels! I highly recommend some sort of panel removal tool to remove panels. This will help protect your panels from breaking.

3.) Time to run wires!

First, we’ll run the power cable: Find a hole in the firewall of your vehicle. If you can’t find a hole, you might be able to squeeze a power cable through the far corner of your hood, by the windshield and into your vehicle that way. If you can’t do that, then you’ll have to drill. Every car is different, but one piece of advice is always true: Plan ahead, and be careful! Inspect where you plan to drill the hole, and be sure you won’t damage anything in the process. Take it slow, or if you’re feeling really nervous, drive your vehicle to a stereo shop, and have them run your power wire through the firewall. Next, run the cable wherever it will fit nicely, and not be visible once you put the carpet back in place. Run it all the way to your trunk (or wherever you plan to have your amp or distribution blocks mounted). Next, secure the cable. Use zip ties, or glue, or even velcro to make sure your power cable stays where it should. Be sure it is not near any moving parts, or rubbing on anything that will strip the insulation. Also, be sure it will not get in the way of anything once you re-install all of the panels, carpet, etc.

Next, let’s run your RCA cable(s), interface cables and Remote turn on wire. Again, be sure the negative cable is disconnected from the battery. Disassemble any and all of the panels surrounding your head unit. Pull your head unit out. Next, pull up all of the panels, consoles and carpet around where you’ll be running your RCA cable and interface cable. Connect the remote turn-on wire to your head unit’s wiring harness. If you are planning to connect more than one or two devices to your head unit’s remote turn-on, you will want to look into installing a relay. Next, run the RCA cables, interface cable and remote turn-on. All of the stuff I said earlier about power cables is also true of RCA and interface cables. Be sure your cable is not near any moving parts, it is not rubbing against anything that will strip the insulation, and it is mounted in such a way that it will not show once the panels and carpet are put back in place. Connect the RCA cables to the pre-outs on your head unit, and be sure you know which RCA cable goes to which channel on your amp. Many RCA cables use colour-coding, so it shouldn’t be too difficult. Plug in your interface cable. Now, re-install your head unit. Make sure everything is all hooked up before you put everything back together!!

OK, last step. Let’s run speaker wire! This is exactly like running all of the other wires above. Pull up the panels. Run the wires. Be mindful of where you plan to run them. Secure them. Make sure you have a few extra feet at each end of the speaker cable. I know this sounds stupid, but trust me. It’s more stupid to spend all of this time running wire only to discover that it’s too short. Then, you have to pull the wire up, throw it away, then run it all over again. DUMB!

4.) Secure wires!

Now that your wires are run, it’s time to secure them. There are many ways to secure wires, and not all of them will work at all times. In fact, you’ll probably need to use a variety of methods to secure your wires throughout your vehicle. Soooooo….

• Secure wires with zip ties to other bundles of wires.
• Secure wires with zip ties to small holes (or create small holes)
• Use glue to secure zip ties to your vehicle, then secure the wires with them.
• Run wires behind objects that they can be secured to.
• Use velcro to secure wires

5.) Secure wires to mounting locations (amp racks, speaker pods, etc)

If you have any sort of custom enclosure or rack for your stereo components, you’ll want to find a way to secure your wires to the rack or enclosure. If these racks or enclosures are designed to be seen, you might want to take some time making the wires visible, and looking good.

In the example of amp racks, you can drill holes where all of the electrical connections go into the amp. Run the wires through these holes, and to your amp. This trick will make your wires look nice and clean, and keep your wires organized.

For speaker enclosures, there are a variety of things you can do to make the wires look good. For plexiglass subwoofer enclosures, people often choose wire that looks good. In addition, top installers will choose wire hardware (terminals) that are of high quality, and look good. If you want your enclosure to be removable, you can install speaker terminals on the outside of the enclosure, or even install a custom quick-release wiring harness.

Enjoy! -Honest AEB

Alan Bayer is an entrepreneur and car audio enthusiast. He runs an eBay store selling car stereo install supplies:

He also has a GREAT website with car audio articles (such as the one from above). Also on the website, learn about car audio equipment, how to find the best equipment, how to install it, and save big bucks in the process!

http://www.honestaebs-caraudio.com/

Subscribe to Honest AEB’s FREE Car Audio Magazine!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alan_Bayer

Scosche Su2027b Car Stereo Installation Kit For Subaru Impreza 2008

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